When I am asked what the perks are to owning a wine store I would have to say its being offered wines that I would either not be able to afford in a restaurant or offered wines that are unavailable at most retail outlets. Getting my hands on a few cases of Parusso’s magnificent 2007 Barolo would also be one of them.
Parusso is a complex wine. It’s a blend of traditionalist and modernist. The modern take comes from allowing the grapes to dry, whole cluster, for a few days before maceration. Parusoo believes that allowing the stems and all to ‘breathe’ for a while introduces oxygen into the stem and grape. This oxygenation creates a bolder, more approachable wine in the bottle. Listen, some people stick a cow’s horn in the ground and pray to the moon so whatever rocks his boat. If the wines come out as fabulous as this one did I don’t really care.
The 07 is a smoldering beauty. We opened the first bottle in the store last Friday. Out of the bottle it was tight, more backward than I was expecting, so we decanted it. Rested it for a few minutes and then tried it again. Wow. Smoky dark cherries, pepper, plums. I had it again this evening, dinner took longer to prep and the first bottle of something had already been finished. Fortunately I bought a case so losing a bottle so quickly didn’t make me cringe. The wine is ethereal – you expect it to be oozing out of the bottle but it dances. Its light in that sense but it draws you in with almost mystical fruit flavors, rich, dark, savory and sweet. This is what really good wine should taste like. There is still tannin on the front palate which indicates the wine has plenty of years of aging potential and it will become even richer over time. Right now though it’s the best of both worlds – the traditionalist, smoky oaky backward wine, with the modernist twist of up-front fruit flavors and soft juiciness.
- Producer: Parusso
- Vintage: 2007
- Varietal: Nebbiolo
- Country: Italy
- Region: Piedmont
- Production: Decent
- Availability: $40 pb. $32.50 pb on 12 (limited availability)
Order: Ordering is simple. Click on the e-mail link below and tell me how many bottles you think you may want. We’ll figure out the rest from there and reply to your e-mail within 1 day.