Not all criticism is good criticism and sometimes we taste stuff that doesn’t pass muster. I’m in two minds about this wine. Satta can be an extraordinary wine-maker and visionist. He’s also based in an area of Italy that I foresee becoming the nerve center for all great wine coming out of Italy – the Maremma region, in particular Bolgheri. This is on the west coast of Italy south of Pisa. It fronts the Mediterranean on the west and the hills of Tuscany inland. The land south of Bolgheri was, until quite recently, just a wasteland of marshes and mosquitos but over the last few decades the area has cleaned itself up and some surprising names in wine-lore have set up camp there. Satta is one of them.
The Giovin Re that we tasted yesterday as part of our staff Chinese take-out was the 2007 vintage. It should still be good but I suspect that the few cases that were left at the distributor had not been well cared for because at least 1/2 dozen of the bottles have seepage and bulging tops. The one we opened looked good but there was some caramelization around the cork, under the foil. Satta’s Giovin Re is 100% viognier – that itself makes the wine interesting – what the hell is viognier doing in the swampalands of Marrimar? Anyway, past the caramel nose the wine poured a little too viscously and the color was a little too golden. Onto the nose and there is a definite funk to it. Not a bad smell, not cooked, or oaked, just something you don’t expect to be there – rather like a cockroach. Personally I found the wine actually quite decent. It’s all slightly old hazelnut and bunt tangerine skin but it’s a conversation piece. Its definitely oily, heavy, devoid of fresh fruit but not sickly or sweet. I think with the right kind of food and the right approach the wine would hold up – I would serve it pretty cold to try and coax a little more acid out of it but I did think that it was a wine worth opening, worth tasting and worth talking about. And in the end isn’t that what most wine should be?
I’ve seen this on the market at $38-45. Since this one is suspect (we pulled any bottles that remotely looked like a leaker), I’m offering it out at $15.00 – just for the hell of it. Try it – honestly, if the taste isn’t for you it will make a really good cooking wine, especially for chicken or fish.
- Producer: Michele Satta
- Vintage: 2007
- Varietal: Viognier
- Country: Italy
- Region: B ulgheri
- Production: No idea
- Availability: Only a few bottles – $15.00. Market price is $38-$45
Order: Ordering is simple. Click on the e-mail link below and tell me how many bottles you think you may want. We’ll figure out the rest from there and reply to your e-mail within 1 day.